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Apr 21, 2023

Surprising Things About First Trip to Buenos Aires, From American

I'm from Los Angeles and I recently visited Argentina, my partner's home country, for the first time.

We spent two weeks in Buenos Aires before traveling to other parts of the South American country, and it was a truly spectacular experience.

I wasn't sure what to expect from the capital, but these were the most surprising things about my time there.

I had a feeling I'd see a lot of soccer paraphernalia around Buenos Aires, as Argentina had won the 2022 World Cup weeks before we arrived.

Still, I was surprised by how many photos I saw of Lionel Messi, the captain of the Argentina national football team. His face was on street murals, wine bottles, beer cans, and potato-chip bags.

The winning team was also on billboards all over Buenos Aires. These players aren't just sports superstars in Argentina; many locals consider them national heroes.

In the US, I always see salt and pepper shakers right next to each other on restaurant tables.

Though I could pretty much always find salt at the spots where I dined in Argentina, the pepper was seemingly absent. I learned that salt is a staple of Argentinian cooking, but black pepper isn't.

In fact, the Argentinian government passed a law in 2013 mandating the reduction of salt in prepared foods to prevent health issues like heart disease and high blood pressure. It's called Menos Sal Más Vida, which translates to "less salt more life."

Restaurants must limit the number of salt shakers they offer customers, display the risks of overconsumption on menus, and offer dishes that don't contain added salt. If the restaurants don't abide by the rules, the government can impose fines or shut them down.

Italian immigrants brought pizza with them to Argentina when they came in the late 19th century. However, the pies I saw in Buenos Aires had unique toppings and looked different than the ones I typically eat in the US.

I tried a spin on Hawaiian pizza with pineapple, ham, black olives, and brown sugar. I was quite surprised to see sugar on pizza. Another one had hearts of palm, hard-boiled eggs, ham, and salsa golf, a cold sauce made of ketchup and mayonnaise.

I also tried a white pizza, which looked similar to a deep-dish pie and was filled with cream and spinach. It's typically served with a slice of fainá, a chickpea pancake that goes directly on top of the pizza.

As a vegetarian, I was skeptical about my food options in a country known for its meat. To my surprise, there were loads of mouthwatering meals that would make any vegetarian drool.

I was able to order pretty much all of the pizzas without meat, meaning I didn't have to hold back from trying the local specialties.

I also ate roasted vegetables with provoleta, which is provolone grilled to melty perfection, and handmade ravioli stuffed with eggplant, sun-dried tomatoes, and spinach. For snacks, I had walnuts and cheeses.

Empanadas, which are turnovers made with flour dough and stuffed with delicious ingredients, are another famous Argentinian food. They typically have meat inside, but I found some that were vegetarian-friendly with fillings like mozzarella, basil and tomato, cheese and onion, and humita (a corn filling).

Argentina produces some of the world's best wines, including its Malbec, and we sampled many types during our trip.

The wine menus were a bit different than the ones I'm used to seeing in the US. At many restaurants in Buenos Aires, ordering by the bottle seemed to be more common than ordering by the glass, which wasn't even an option at some places.

Red wine also seemed to be more popular than white or rosé. The few times I was able to order wine by the glass at bars, red was usually the only option.

Some waiters also served red wine with ice in it, likely because I visited during the hot summer months. It was new for me, but I grew to love it.

Buenos Aires is really, really big — about 78 square miles, to be specific — and each neighborhood feels like its own city.

Despite the capital's size, I found it pretty easy to navigate. Being from Los Angeles, it's hard to imagine living in a city without a car, but it isn't completely necessary to have one in Buenos Aires.

The city is accessible by subway, bus, or taxi, and many of the neighborhoods are walkable.

The capital has stunning, restorative parks tucked away amongst the city's hustle and bustle. I loved that I could find green spaces and nature, such as the Bosques de Palermo and the Jardín Japonés, in such a cosmopolitan city.

I spent many days meandering through the parks, smelling fresh flowers, and watching locals take their afternoon strolls.

My favorite park in Buenos Aires is El Rosedal. There, I found rose gardens and a large lake where people can rent paddle boats and watch ducks float by. It's a true gem.

Even the streets were lined with trees, and the streets themselves were spick-and-span.

As someone with a sweet tooth, I loved being able to try all the unique treats and candies Argentina has to offer.

Dulce de leche — a thick, creamy caramel sauce — is the treat I saw most commonly in Argentina, and it was in a lot of different types of desserts.

For example, I tried the delightful Vauquita candy bars with dulce-de-leche filling. Traditional alfajores also have a dulce de leche spread between two flaky, soft cookies. Some are coated with milk or white chocolate on the outside.

Buenos Aires' architecture has such strong French, Italian, and Spanish influences that I felt like it transported me to Europe — hence the city's nickname: the Paris of South America.

Foreign architects built many of these structures in the early 20th century, when the country's economy was flourishing.

One of my favorite places in Buenos Aires is the Plaza de Mayo, the city's oldest public square. The Casa Rosada, or "pink house," is there, and it serves as the president's office.

The exterior is filled with intricate details, arched doorways, and windows. A large Argentinian flag waves in front — its light blues, whites, and yellows are a splendor against the pink building.

The Obelisco is just a short walk away. The massive monument was built in 1936 to commemorate Buenos Aires' fourth centenary and still towers over the city center's busy streets.

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